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DESIGNER LAPIS LAZULI JEWELRY

The market prefers an intense medium to dark blue, with violet undertones. Of course, the more blue the material is with little to no visible inclusions, the more valuable it is.

Inclusions can appear as white streaks of calcite or flecks of golden pyrite.

Where is lapis lazuli found?

Since antiquity, lapis lazuli has been mined in Afghanistan - where the most desirable material is found.

Deposits can also be found in Chile, Siberia, Myanmar, and even North America (California and Colorado).

Lapis can be dyed or treated with wax or oil, improving the color or luster of the surface.

For some gemstones it is an acceptable practice (emerald) and for others it is something to avoid (opal). Examples can be heat treatment, irradiation, bleaching, and fracture/cavity filling and these should always be disclosed.

On the topic of treatment of any kind with any gemstone, knowledge is power because it always impacts value.

The Mohs scale of hardness is important to consider when choosing a particular stone for a particular kind of wear. 

It is the degree of mineral “hardness”, measured by the resistance which a smooth surface offers to abrasion: 1 (soft) to 10 (hard). For example, an 8 will scratch a gemstone that is a 7 or below. Simply put, the softer the material, the more aware you need to be about wearing it in jewelry that may be exposed to more wear.

Lapis lazuli, while still in the hard range, is a “5” - “6”. As it is more susceptible to damage with accidental bumps, choosing kinds of lapis lazuli jewelry (i.e. necklaces or earrings) that will encounter less contact with harder surfaces is a good option, as are cocktail rings. Lapis lazuli is not the most durable gemstone for an everyday ring unless it is thoughtfully designed to really protect it.

Because quartz is a “7” on the Mohs scale (harder than lapis lazuli) and can be present in common dust, be sure to wash lapis lazuli jewelry under warm water prior to wiping off dust to prevent scratching.

How to care for lapis lazuli jewlery

A few jewelry care basics can keep your pieces looking their best, avoid damage and loss of gemstones.

WEAR: When dressing for day or night, jewelry should be the last thing on and the first thing off. Contact with chemicals such as fragrance, hairspray, nail polish remover, household cleaners, and chlorine can harm jewelry. Remove jewelry when swimming, cleaning, gardening, or playing sports, as activewear can damage or loosen settings - resulting in the loss of stones.

CHECK SETTINGS AND STONES: Inspect jewelry before wearing it to check if the stones are chipped, loose, or rattle in settings.

CLEANING: All precious metals, gemstones, and pearls should be cleaned regularly, but require different care. For example, ultrasonic cleaners can shatter pearls or diminish the appearance of emeralds. For gemstones on the Mohs scale at 7 or above, a simple cleaning solution is warm water with mild soap and soft toothbrush. For those at 6 or below, replace the toothbrush with a soft cloth. Be sure the jewel is thoroughly rinsed and dry prior to storage. A soft polishing cloth will keep any precious metal looking its best. 

STORAGE: Keep jewelry individually stored in a pouch or box to avoid dents, scratching, and tangles. Chemicals, humidity, and excessive hot/cold conditions can tarnish some metals (apart from high karat gold) and damage gemstones and pearls. 

INSURANCE: For any jewelry of significant value, be sure to have it appraised, file any provenance and gemstone report in a secure place, and be sure to have it insured.